Saturday, October 13, 2012

Aloha people and Happy Saturday!

I was off today (yaaayyyy!) and went to the beach with Cindy and her husband, Jason. We went to Des Amies for breakfast crepes and headed over to the south side to paddle board. The waves were boomin' on the North Shore by Haiku so they wanted to take me to this surf break called "Grandma's". Grandma's is literally on the side of the highway and broken into 8-9 private beach breaks from trees, etc. Even though its on the highway, theres a really cool feel of being alone and in your own private space because each of the 'beach breaks' are only 20-30 feet long. Really intimate and private. Anyways, the wind was really strong over at Grandma's so we were up in the air about actually going out to paddle. I've never paddled in any wind and with waves...but I was determined to get in the water with the board because I haven't done it since I first got here. Anyways, I went out with Jason (he was surfing) and felt the difference immediately. Attempting to paddle board in waves is not the most comfortable thing in the world...especially if you're new at it. The first wave I hit was about 3 feet tall which is HUGE for me. To see a three foot tall wave coming at me while standing on a board with a stick (paddle) and knowing that there isn't a damn thing I can do about the water really isn't the thought that will put you at ease. Anyways, I rode about 5 waves until I got out of the wave break. Cindy decided to join us and paddled with me for maybe 10 minutes before we decided the wind was too strong. The wind made it incredibly hard to paddle and the waves were coming in long sets so you would have to ride the entire set. I thought I could do it...until I realized I have no control over the water at all ahha. Brian said he would take me over to the South side with a paddle and longboard to teach me, so hopefully it won't be windy because today was really difficult for me. Anyways, it took us F O R E V E R to paddle in and decided to lay out on the beach and catch the sun. Super strong beach day. So hot. We were in the furthest right beach alcove and Owen Wilson was right next to us! No one else on the beach, but he was in the alcove right next to us. Sweet life.



 Before my epic, windy fail.

 Cindy and I! The master photoshopper. 
 Cindy & Jason
 This "I'd Cap That" had me dying. 

Cindy and Jason let me in on the oblivious to me secret that I am the "new meat" on the island. I haven't been able to tell the difference when people are being genuinely nice to me, or are hitting on me! So awful. This Hawai'ian hospitality is so above and beyond, they are the same to me. I told them about Fleetwood's and they were answering in and saying things like: "Well, because you're smokin' hot", or "Of course he came over with biscuits! He would have brought 24", etc. Whoops. I just think everyone is being nice and treating me in the spirit of Aloha. I think I'll stick with thinking that. 

Before we went back to Haiku, we came to this drive through coffee stop. Seriously. This is the drive through coffee place! I had the most (complicated) delicious italian soda! Delish! 


With warmest aloha,
MJ


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